Weekend post.

U going 2 the beach?

I already saw the Facebook status advertising the get together twenty minutes before I receiving this text. Glad to see the weekly dissemination of Saturday's plans have begun. Yes, I'm going.

I've spent the morning as I usually spend my weekend mornings; sleeping in (just 9:30 or so), Skyping a few close family and friends, listening to this weeks podcasts, and half-heartedly tidying up my apartment. Depending on how Friday evening went, I may also be nursing a very mild to medium hangover.

At an incredibly leisurely pace, I prepare myself to leave the apartment. I make sure to stuff my beach bag with the usual; blanket, towel, camera, iPod, songbook, and sunscreen. I pull on my anchor-patterned swim trunks and a tank top, and slip on my blue boat shoes (God, I love those so so much.) I top off my beach bum look with a bandana that disguises my too-long-to-rock-a-short-look, too-short-to-rock-a-long-look hair and a pair of rainbow plaid wayfarers. As I walk out the door, I grab my ukulele in its case and strap it to my back. Outfit complete.

Before flagging down a taxi I stop by a convenience store and buy myself some snacks for the sand - a cold lemonade, a bag of chips, and some highly questionable chicken on a stick that I'll gladly eat anyway.

Seven other foreigners are already there, staking out our usual spot. I set up my area, apply the 'block, and give my body over to the sun.

People trickle in, the afternoon wears on. We play cards, drink beer, barbeque, listen to music... basically all the things you can expect from a group of 20-somethings hanging out at any given location, but in bathing suits. The long stretches of sand lounging are punctuated by the occasional dip into the water; a tradeoff of refreshment and mild disgust (the stillness of the water makes for some tepid conditions. Still... it can be ignored.

Hours pass, our skin turns pink as we neglect to reapply our protective creams, and the sun disappears over the hills. We formulate the next phase of our plan; a short dinner break, and then regrouping for cheap beer and Ministop ice cream in the park.

I love it here.

Oh, and here's a video.

Gettin' my photoshop on...

Just added a bunch of new edited pictures from my visits to Seoul, as well as the fourth of July (fireworks on the beach!) Go have a looksie if you're interested. If not, carry on with your life. I won't be offended. 
...Or will I?

This post is totally vintage.

Here's the draft that I never finished/posted from awhile back. Rather than rewrite and adjust for the passed time, I'll just have you keep in mind that it was written about a month ago.

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It's been awhile since my last "catch everyone up on what's going on" post, I know. Sorry about that. I'd say that not a lot is going on here, and there's not much to update... but there's definitely enough to make a possibly lengthy e-mail. I'll take a look at this when I'm finished and guage it then.

A couple weeks ago my parents came through Korea on their big Southeast Asian adventure. They arrived in Yeosu on Wednesday (the 15th), and were immediately hustled to my school to meet my co-teacher and co-workers, who graciously waited around after school to meet them. (Seriously, Koreans are so nice.)

My parents stayed for the remainder of the week, and I took them to a few places in Yeosu, and introduced them to my friends (and Soju.) On Saturday morning we caught a plane up to Seoul, and toured around there a bit; we went to Gyeongbokgung Palace, a cat cafe (you don't eat cats here), Namsan tower, 63 Building, and [my personal favorite] got fish pedicures. For those of you who don't know what that is... it's basically like your feet are cows bleeding in the Piranha infested waters of the amazon, but on a much, much tamer scale. Kinda. (Tiny fish exfoliate your feet by eating the dead skin. It feels ticklish/gross/amazing. I want to do it every day now.) We stayed until Monday, when I flew home and left them to stay an extra night and before their departure for Thailand. It's sad that it will be another year before I see them in person again, but it was wonderful to have them here - most of the people in Yeosu have never had family visit.

I've made arrangements for my summer vacation at the end of this month. Destination: Boracay, the Philippines. If you've never heard of it before (like me, before my friends informed me) go Google image search it. It's a tiny island composed of the kinds of beaches you see in stock photos or screen savers. In fact, the world's top rated white sand beach is "seconds away" from the hostel that I booked. Which means if I pee my pants with glee upon my arrival, I can just hop into the ocean and no one will be the wiser. I managed to snag some super, super cheap airfares, as well as private accommodations right on the beach, and will be there from July 24th - August 1st. I will be going alone, sadly, I hope to make friends there. There is cliff diving, snorkeling, helmet diving, jet skiing, unicorn riding, and magical wish-granting-fish befriending available to me there. (My wish: more Boracay.)

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Anyway, there's your dose of outdated information! More catch-up blogs are coming today/this week, as well as pictures. I'm desk warming all week, which means there are no students, no classes, but I still have to be at the school. JUST BECAUSE. It takes Facebooking to a whole new level.

Oops.

I'm about as good at maintaining this blog as I am at maintaining a houseplant. (R.I.P. all the houseplants I've ever owned.)

SO. MUCH. HAS. HAPPENED. Since my last post, anyway. Including my parent's visit, and a trip to the Philippines. Actually, that may be about all the interesting stuff. I could also write about my hair, which, as boring a subject as that would be to read about, is actually something that is slowly driving me nuts.

I've got a draft that I wrote about my parent's visit (back in JUNE - oops), so in the interest of chronology I'll post that before I get into the more recent stuff.

I'll try to be better at this whole blog thing. The problem is that I get so tired of writing about what I'm doing, it wears me down and I put it off. I'm going to work on tailoring this to fulfill my own writing interests somehow... More lists, less paragraphs. More quips, less anecdotes. More cowbell, less no cowbell. I love lamp.

I hate Will Ferrel, for the record.

Busan, in a 16-day-old nutshell

Since the 6th of this month was a holiday, a few friends and I decided to spend some time in Busan. There were two main things on my Busan agenda: Thai food and gay bars. (Yeosu has neither.)

Thai food was first. Accompanied by my friends Kaylyn, Carly, and Tessa, together we hunted down the restaurant that was, according to the internet, supposed to be great. It wasn't. I could go into how the tiny, expensive food took an hour and forty-five minutes to deliver, or how it was delivered in confusing phases, or how we talked people out of eating there as we were walking out, but I won't...

To console ourselves, we walked the four blocks to the beach, picking up beers along the way, and took in the SAND CASTLE FESTIVAL (!!!!!) that was going on. And, of course, got a little buzz on.

After the beach, we decided a second, fulfilling meal was called for, and there just HAPPENED to be a Mexican joint nearby. We all ate burritos, and shared a big pitcher of Margaritas. It was amazeballs.

We then retired to the hostel for a at nap before we headed out to the gay area - which we got lost trying to find. Luckily, during the search we passed another group of westerners who, judging from the V-neck shirts and cuffed pants, were looking for the same place. They too were just in Busan for the weekend, having come down from Incheon. We teamed up and together found the seedy little alley where a couple doors with rainbow flags could be found. We grabbed a drink at Banana Bar, and I began to flirt with a cute Canadian fellow we'd just met. Numbers were exchanged, drinks were bought. Eventually we wound up on a beach where an old woman sold us fireworks which we shot off into the night sky over the water. Oh, and Rich and I made out in the sand. (Fireworks = aphradesiac.)

The next morning was an American-style brunch (french toast!) and more beach time before BARELY making it to the station in time to catch our bus back to the 'Su. (It should be mentioned that Tessa pulled a Breakfast Club type of skid-stop in the midst of our hurrying.) We returned to Yeosu without incident, and I began counting down the days until the promise of awesomeness that the next weekend held. Stay tuned for another hastily written, poorly composed catch-up blog!

Haeundae Beach, Busan

Untitled a photo by faublehead on Flickr.

The other weekend I went to Busan and snapped a few pictures on the beach. I'm finally getting around to posting them now, while I sit at school waiting for the clock to turn five.

It's a 35 minute bus ride downtown.

I spend a lot of time on buses here. That amounts to a lot of time with my mind wandering while I shut out the world with my iPod. When I think of something that amuses me, I type it into my phone to write about later. Here's the current list.

Every trip downtown, I see tons of "bus runs." The bus run: That awkward, self-conscious run people do in public when they're rushing, but not actually exerting themselves. I made up the name to describe the pace of people who are still 20 yards from the bus stop as their bus is approaching. It's also commonly seen while crossing the street after the light turns red. I love spotting a good, half-hearted bus run.

If I ever visit the leaning tower of Pisa, I want to take a picture of tourists doing the 'prop it up' pose and be in the foreground with a sign that says "Douche."

I invented a little game for myself. It's really stupid, but basically I try to take any movie and, through selective details, think of a descriptions that sound like bizarre drug experiences. Take It's a Wonderful LIfe, for example: You can literally hear the stars in the sky talking to each other. A guy wants to throw a rope around the moon and pull it down. The floor splits apart and people start swimming in it. A guy freaks out and starts thinking he was never born. Whoa, man...

Sharper Image should start selling sound machines with a Bob Ross setting.

I yearn to respond to "You use chopsticks very well!" with the equivalent compliment "You buttoned your shirt very well!" and watch Koreans wonder why they are being praised for the unremarkable accomplishment of having developed motor skills.

Sometimes I'll be staring out the bus window I'll think to myself 'Julia Roberts, I bet if you stopped pursuing Dermot Mulroney he'd dump Cameron Diaz and start chasing your tail. Then you'd finally have what you *think* you want... But you've got to consider this: There's absolutely no way he didn't realize you have feelings for him, which means he knew this and yet did nothing while you suffered. He's obviously just playing dumb so his ego can grow while you try harder and harder to win him over. He doesn't actually care about you. He doesn't see you as a person, just as a way of making himself feel better. What kind of deep-seeded emotional issues drives a person to compulsively pit jealous women against each other in an effort to win his ultimately unattainable affection? Isn't that a bit sociopathic?? How many more lives will he ruin?? Julia, do you really want to be with a guy like that?!?!?' Then I'll realize I'm analyzing My Best Friends Wedding, and I'll want to shoot myself in the face.

Drop the Y and suddenly you've got Charlie and the Chocolate Factor. I like this title a lot more for it's hilarious conceptual potential.

I get this dark-humored, creative writing tourette's when I write lesson plans. Typing about an activity will go something like this: Students will look at pictures of objects, identify them, and then cut off their arms and beat each other with them while using the phrase "All your base are belong to us!" The last one standing wins a piece of candy. Then I have to delete everything and write the real activity. *sigh*

Dinner

I shot this video of my friend Katie and I having Shabu-Shabu at one of our favorite restaurants in Yeosu. That's some good eatin'.

Seoul, part deux

After buying the matching underwear, Rollie left to go to a Cirque de Solei show with the group he had traveled with. Molly and I, drawn like moths to a flame by the promise of H&M, headed further downtown. We perused awhile, and then called Annie and Meagan who came and met us for a dinner of middle-eastern/Indian food, topping off the meal with a patio and a hookah.

After we'd enjoyed the sweet perfume of apple tobacco long enough, Molly and I went to a hole-in-the-wall bar called Vinyl, where Ray and Victoria were enjoying tasty cocktails that were served in plastic bags. And when I say hole-in-the-wall, I mean just that. The place was a single, triangular room with a small counter where you could order your drinks, and a couple benches around the perimeter. It was like drinking in a walk-in closet. The lighting was dim, there were band/event posters littering the wall, and a bohemian-filth atmosphere that instantly earned a place in my heart. I cannot wait to go again.

We left Vinyl to explore the other bars in Hongdae (the area of town where Molly and my hostels were) and, after swimming through the restless tides of foreigners doing exactly what were were doing, we eventually settled on one of the literally hundreds (thousands?) of bars in the area, and grabbed a booth across from a Korean asleep at his table. It wasn't until an hour later that we realized that Rollie was with his friends in the booth on the other side of the dividing wall. We couldn't have orchestrated this meeting if we had tried - no one knew the city well enough to direct the other to a place to meet. So we hung out some more and had a beer together.

The next morning I again ate breakfast, checked out of my hostel, and caught to metro to meet up with Maren and Rollie in the shopping area of the city. I stored my luggage in a public locker, and met them for some more shopping, including a successful trip to Forever 21 where I got a cardigan I suspect I will wear the shit out of. Afterward we found a really good pizza place and the three of us enjoyed a neighbor-reunion lunch before I had to leave to catch a train back to Yeosu. (It's about a five hour journey on land.)

The weekend in Seoul felt like a weekend out of Korea. For the first time since arriving in here, I felt like I didn't stand out while I walked down the street. It was so refreshing to feel anonymous again; you don't how much you think about it until you don't have to. And to be able to experience Seoul in the company of the people that, aside from my family, I have known the longest... well, that was just special.

The train arrived on time back in Yeosu at around 8:30, and I dragged myself home simultaneously satisfied and hungry for more. I will be returning to Seoul next month...

... WHEN MY PARENTS COME TO VISIT!!!

Seoul, part 1

The other weekend I visited Seoul for the first time.

I flew up there on Friday night with Molly. Though the one-way ticket came to about $100, it was definitely worth the extra money, seeing as it cut travel time by about 80% and gave us an extra evening in the city. As a sidenote, the Yeosu airport is really, really small. I got a kick out of the advisory on my confirmation email saying "in case the airport is busy, be sure to arrive at least 20 minutes before your flight departs."

We arrived at Gimpo airport around 8:30, and were checked into our hostels by 9:30. This was actually my first time ever to stay in a hostel. Despite the awkwardness that was sharing a room with two girls from China who spoke no English, I actually liked the hostel experience. It's like combining a vacation with being a freshman in college.

Friday evening was a cheap dinner of gimbop, and after that a walk around the neighborhood. Eventually we wound up in a small, crowded park where we drank mokoli (rice wine) and mingled with the many foreigners around us. After a couple hours of convenience-store runs, terrifying public bathrooms, and playing lots of "spot the cute foreigner," I decided I was drunk enough to head back to my hostel. I creeped in late that night while my foreign room mates slept. They snuck out early the next morning while I slept.

After my breakfast of PB&J on toast, I gave Rollie a call, and arranged to meet him at the entrance to the metro. Molly joined too, making my the meat in a rhyming sandwich. I adopted the nickname 'Faully' to keep with the theme. Together we took the metro to Gyeongbukgung, where Maren already had gone with her friends. We met up with them briefly as they were finishing, but parted ways to finish walking around the humungous palace grounds.

We finished touring Gyeongbukgung and Rollie, Molly and I met some other Yeosuvians (I just now made up that word, and the terminology is subject to change at will) for a rooftop lunch. We all had burgers; mediocre, but comforting. I wasn't complaining though. I don't care what I'm eating when I'm enjoying a sunny day on a roof with a view.

On the street outside the restaurant was the first of two impulse-underwear purchases I would make during my time in Seoul. Fake Dolce and Gabbana neon green trunks for 6,000 won. (About $6.) About an hour later I would buy another pair of fake D&Gs with Rollie. That's right; we each bought a pair of blue and white striped trunks. (With stars on them!) Hands off, ladies.

Seoul, part II coming soon!

Pros and [K]ons

Obviously, moving to a new country with an unfamiliar culture is not easy. It can be frustrating, and at times I begin to feel critical. I certainly do a fair share of venting to friends, but I also try to counterbalance my negative feelings about certain aspects of the culture by finding an equal number of positive things to focus on. I think that's healthier.

Some examples...

CON: Constant shoe removal. At school, restaurants, people's apartments, etc.
PRO: Apartments are heated through the floors. Very effective and your feet are toasty.

CON: Yellow dust & yellow dust hysteria. Sinus-irritating sand blows over from the Gobi desert, and everyone freaks out about it.
PRO: Never having to tip waiters, cab drivers, or anyone else. Ever.

CON: Kimchi. I tried, honest I did. But it's just gross.
PRO: Gimbop. A great snack that's cheap, healthy, available EVERYWHERE.

CON: Lightbulbs. They're all florescent or halogen. I miss the warm, flattering glow of tungsten.
PRO: Convenience stores. They're literally on almost every corner. You're never more than 100 yards from a quick snack, a basic home amenity, or your next cheap alcoholic drink.

CON: Loogie-hocking in public. People here constantly hock loud, nasty loogies in public. It's not considered rude, apparently.
PRO: Public transportation. It's far more reliable, accessible, and affordable than what I was used to in Colorado.

CON: Phone etiquette. People will answer that damn cell whenever and wherever it may ring. The idea that they can call someone back does not seem to even occur to them.
PRO: Public drinking. It's totally legal, and I feel like a high-schooler. As a bonus, with the multitude of convenience stores, beer is never far from any beautiful public park where you can hang out.

CON: Fish bones. They often don't de-bone the fish before serving it. On more than one occasion I've almost choked on a splinter stuck in my throat.
PRO: Drinking yogourt. It's like milk, but it's yogourt, and it's DELICIOUS!

CON: Giant visors. They're tacky and hideous, and every woman owns one.
PRO: Cabs. This might technically go under public transportation, but the cabs here are so ridiculously abundant and affordable, they get their own shout out on this list.

CON: Academia. It's really, really competitive out here. Kids have it rough. I do not envy them in the slightest.
PRO: The physical layout of elementary schools. They all seem to share the same structure; long two-story buildings with big windows and sliding doors. They feel streamlined and inviting. There's a simplicity to them that I just love.

This might be a good time to mention one of the best resources I used to prepare myself for life out here. Shortly before I left, I met a guy who had lived in Korea for several months. He gave me great advice, as well as a recommendation of a book called Culture Shock! Korea by Sonja Vegdahl and Ben Seunghua Hur (Ben Hur?) The book is one in a series that prepares westerners for life abroad. Upon returning home from meeting this guy, I ordered it from Amazon immediately. After arriving in Korea, I was immediately able to apply what I had read to real-life situations. The book described differences in personal space etiquette, gestures, and outlined cultural values. Did you know that the Korean hand motion to call someone over to you is a downward-palm wave? I didn't before I read the book, which told me upward-palm is used for dogs, and can therefore be considered insulting. My good friend Molly told me she read this before arriving and found the book equally helpful. For anyone planning on visiting a foreign country, I would strongly suggest you read the corresponding Culture Shock book to prepare. You'll be glad you did.

Writer's block.

I've had it.

A few things that have been on my mind though...

One: I'm not excited by the death of Osama bin Laden at all. The whole thing has me a bit wary. Watching the interwebs abuzz with people celebrating his violent death creeps me out. There's also the uncomfortable fact that it remains to be seen whether his death makes the slightest bit of difference. Other than vengeance, what does it mean that we killed this guy we've been looking for? How crucial was he to the operations of Al Qaeda if he spent the past decade in hiding? I just don't know.

BTW: Margaret posted a link to a great article in the New York Times.

Two: On Friday evening I will fly to Seoul to spend the weekend touring around. Maren will be there with Rollie, and I intend to meet up and go exploring the eighth largest city in the world together.

Three: Korea celebrates Children's Day every May 5th. It's exactly what it sounds like. I specifically remember whining to my mom as a kid "There's a Mother's Day, and a Father's Day. Why don't kids get a day?" To which she scoffed and replied "You do. It's called Christmas." She was so right. I shut my mouth, knowing I had just been pwned.

Korea doesn't see things this way though, so they've created a holiday that celebrates every child's amazing achievement: mere existence. If this affected me in any way other than being off work tomorrow, I'd say it was bullshit. But luckily it doesn't, so bring on the celebratin'. I think I'll do so by  calling it Cinco de Mayo and drinking tequilla. This one's for you, kids! Olé!

Photostream updated

New pictures added to my Flickr account! Don't know what an ajumma looks like? Now you do. Wondering how the view is from some hill in Yeosu? Wonder no more! Dying to see a small pile of seaweed on a plate? Your wish is my command. Turned off by another picture of me amongst the flowers? Too bad!

[K]afeteria talk

If you're curious what I'm talking about between 12:20 and 1pm Monday through Friday, this could almost substitute as a live satellite feed.

Ok, maybe not 100% accurate... but close enough to warrant being exclusively featured in a blog post.

Teaching goes viral.

Tuesday is probably the most dreaded day of the week. Not because it’s the busiest day for me (which it is), but because I face my two toughest audiences of the week in the same day. My second and third period classes on Tuesday are notoriously unenthusiastic. Seriously, it’s brutal. Answers are usually half-hearted inaudible mumbles, and eyes are facing deskward. Nothing I do to boost their morale or capture their attention seems to work, and I'm often left feeling like I'm riding an  elevator with a stranger. Except in this case the elevator ride is 40 minutes long, and once I step off that elevator I have to board a new elevator with an even worse stranger. I have to endure this every week.

But today was different. Today I pulled out something magic, something the kids and I can both relate to. Today I pulled out…. The YouTube viral videos.

For fifth grade we have begun a lesson called “It’s under the table.” It’s exactly as inane as it sounds, and the kids have some difficulty getting into prepositions, despite their importance. Sometimes [read: most of the time] the book’s recommended activity is underwhelming, and it bores the students, and leaves me feeling terrible. I feel like they are insulting to the children’s intelligence. So last night I decided to bust into my ‘favorites’ list on my YouTube account to find something, anything, that I could use from there. Cue bear video.

“Where is the bear?" "He’s in the tree! He’s on the trampoline! He’s on the ground! He’s under the tree! He’s in front of the trampoline!” The kids got it, and laughed their asses off too. The same basic questions were applied to a video of a fat kid on a diving board.

Grade six is beginning a lesson called “Do you like spring?” I opted out of the book’s recommended activity ("Show flash cards while saying true/false statements and have the students guess!" Barf.) Instead, I found four entertaining videos that were seasonally specific enough to get the students answering questions; What season is it in the video? What are they doing? For the summer example, I stuck with the diving board clip. (Seriously, it's a classic.) Winter had an Eskimo being eaten. Fall had a car being crushed by an enormous pumpkin. Spring was my personal favorite, with a cute flower prank.

Browsing YouTube... I never knew work could feel so much like unemployment.

Retina gorging.

Get your Visene ready, because once again it's time to damage your eyes by staring in unblinking amazement at the sixteen latest additions to my Flickr account. Most of these are from my trip with Molly to Kwangyang yesterday to admire the cherry blossoms with my co-teacher, Alison a.k.a. Jeong Sun-Yung. A few others are from a break-dancing competition I stumbled across on the street the other day while shopping.


I also saw a purple-eared puppy at some point. Yeah, for reals. Handle it.

Pillow talk.

I’m writing from my bed. Seven weeks in and it’s finally the comfortable sanctuary it’s intended to be. As I mentioned awhile back, sheets are few and far between out here, and I like me some sheets. I put off looking for them out here, and my procrastination was rewarded on Thursday with the arrival of Chris and Natalie’s care package. Contents? A full set of sheets: grey, wrinkle-free, perfect. In addition to sheets (which, after seeing, I literally hugged to my chest) I received Annie’s shells and cheese, small growing kits for strawberries and tomatoes, play dough, and a shitload of candy. It made my entire day.

This care package comes on the heels of Margaret’s package, which arrived last Saturday. I called Margaret immediately and gave a live narrative of my unwrapping the barrage of goodies she had sent me. Lot’s of “Oh my God!”s soared across the Skype connection as I discovered, among other things, two batches of homemade cookies, and a giant Rice Krispie treat (my staple road trip food.) Nearly everything was devoured within a few days.

So now here I lay, on my freshly sheeted bed with my soft new mattress pad, full on Mac & Cheese, and watching Planet Earth in the upper left hand corner of my computer. David Attenborough is telling me about Angel Falls, “the highest waterfall on planet Earth.”

Soon I will be receiving one more package, which I cannot wait for. (Geez Nick, greedy much? Can’t you just be content with what you’ve already received?) I can and I am… but the next package coming contains the new glasses I ordered! My D&Gs have served me well over the last four years, but it’s time for a new era of facial adornment. The new pair is green and cute and-

OH SHIT A CROCODILE JUST TOOK OUT A WILDABEAST! This footage requires my attention. Ciao! (Or chow if you’re a crocodile. As in down.)

Eyes to the Front

Coming to Korea, I was quite excited by the idea that I would be able to use vacation time for its intended purpose: vacations. Flights between countries in Southeast Asia are rumored to be fairly cheap.  (I admit I haven’t looked into this too much yet.)

Where am I most excited to go? Thailand. Thailand has been trickling into my brain more and more over the past year.

I think I’ll watch Brokedown Palace. Drip drip.

The Beach with Leonardo DiCaprio? Sure. Drip drip drip.

Oh look, my friend just posted an album of her visit to Bangkok. Drip drip.

I’m hungry for some coconut curry. Drip drop drip.

Maybe I’ll watch some tsunami footage on YouTube. Drip. Bloop. Splash.

The rain barrel in my head is now full of crystal clear, cerulean water.

In addition to Thailand, I am also focused on a trip that Josh, Margaret, and I have our sights on for June of 2012: A yachting trip around the Mediterranean. (I’M ON A BOAT!) I know this sounds impossibly extravagant, but Josh has done some research, and it’s remarkably feasible. Pending full participation, renting a twelve-person yacht with a captain for eight days is only $5,000, or roughly $420 per person.

Chatting with Josh the other day about the future, I mentioned that I’m considering spending several weeks in Thailand once my contract is finished next March. Then Josh suggested something brilliant:

“What might be cheaper than going home,” he said “would be finding an apartment in Thailand to live in until the yachting trip.”

He’s so right. Why hadn’t I thought of this? Thailand is notoriously inexpensive. For the money I might spend just on airfare back to the states, I could easily live in Thailand for three months, with money left over to put towards the yachting trip! It makes so much sense. As of right now, this is my plan. In the meantime, I’ll try to focus on the adventure at hand – It’s not like I don’t have enough on my plate.

So if you’re looking to take an awesome vacation next year between March and June, Thailand might be a thought. Just sayin’…

[K]uisine

Though I’m a fairly open minded eater (I’m probably the most adventurous in the family) I still can’t help but feel proud of myself for how many new foods I have tried since arriving. More importantly, how many of these things were tried without a moment’s hesitation. I’ve resigned myself to the idea that, since I’m here, I might as well try everything they hand me (at least once) and hope for the best.

With the exception of one instance about a year ago, I had never even eaten at a Korean restaurant before I arrived in this country. (Which, really, is quite shocking considering my love for Asian food.) I knew very little about Korean cuisine except this: they love their kimchi like Pooh loves honey.

Kimchi, in case you don’t know, is cabbage that is fermented, chilled, and covered with a red pepper sauce. Served with every meal, it’s like the salt and pepper shakers in America; always on the table. The first few weeks I choked down every piece I was given, hoping I would develop a taste for it. My efforts were in vain, and finally I gave up admitted to myself that I hated it. Seriously, it’s sick.

My first night in Yeosu, a few of us newbies went to dinner with a couple teachers who already knew the ropes. The Korean dining experience is quite different. We removed our shoes and left them at the front of the restaurant, and sat on the floor around tables with little grills in the center. Side dishes filled the entire table; kimchi, shredded vegetables, sauces, etc. There were also roasted silk worm larvae, and octopus tentacles wrapped around a stick, roasted and seasoned (a.k.a. ‘octopops.’) I tried it all. I will not be eating the larvae again any time soon, if I can help it.

Food is rarely served in individualized portions; rather, it is served family-style, and often without a plate. We ordered eel, which was brought out to cook on the grill in front of us. The waitress came out periodically to cut and turn the filets until they were fully cooked, and then we would graze from the grill; snagging a piece with our chopsticks, wrapping it in a lettuce leaf along with other sides on the table, dipping it in a sauce, and shoving it all in your mouth. So many little combinations, all of them delicious. It’s not considered rude to have to slurp or take large bites in Korea, which is good since these wraps are almost impossible to eat any other way.

Once we finished our very tasty and satisfying meal, we headed up to the front of the restaurant where we paid. Tip and tax is included here, which is nice and easy when it comes time to split up the bill.

Since my first night in Yeosu, I’ve had countless meals just like that one. It’s always wonderful, but in a weird way also exhausting. Cooking your own food at the table adds a minor element of stress to the meal (“Is it burning? Fully cooked? Should we turn it?”), and after a month I started to miss pre-portioned, pre-cooked food brought to me on my own plate and eaten while sitting in a chair.  So I took a short break and spent the last couple weeks pursuing other options. However, I would be lying if I said typing this didn’t make me hungry for some Korean BBQ, so obviously I can’t be that sick of it. The next year is going to be an intrepid one for my taste buds.

Playing to my strengths

Teaching elementary school english has been a really interesting experience so far. I teach 22 classes per week, third through sixth grade. There have been moments where the kids are excited and engaged and I'm loving my job, and then there are some moments of uncomfortable silence that make me feel awkward and unprepared. It's all a part of the learning curve.

Teaching is learning. I'm constantly processing the feedback I receive from the kids - what grabs their attention, what leaves them bored, how long it takes them to complete certain tasks, how can you boost their self-confidence, etc. Last week I had two kids burst into tears and I have absolutely no idea why! I'm also learning about my skills as a leader; I'm finding that, without my co-teacher present, I'm much more comfortable standing in front of the kids and talking, which came as a surprise to me. When another teacher is there and instructing the kids, I feel unsure of myself; when I should be jumping in to speak? Should I be taking over? Without another teacher talking, I'm not distracted by this uncertainty and I am comfortable exuding a more commanding presence.

The curriculum is structured around our English textbook and the CD-ROM that comes with it. Each lesson has a certain number of periods it should be taught, and a bunch of different activities that play to different learning styles. For the most part, the book is really great to follow. Pretty thorough, and helpful. However, teaching at Yeocheon Elementary is proving to be very difficult, because I move from classroom to classroom, and have run into computer problems on multiple occasions. This means the lesson plan I had around the CD-ROM is now useless, and I need to come up with something new on the spot. Yikes. Right now I feel like all 12 of my classes at that school are on different pages, and I just want all the grades to be in the same place, so planning the week isn't so difficult. My other school, So-Ra Elementary, has its own English classroom, and consequently I have had no problems following the book there.

One thing I love that works so well for kids (especially the 5th and 6th grade) is competitive games. I know this isn't news to anyone (even I knew this going in), but I still can't help but be impressed with the attention-harnessing power of a scoreboard.

It should also come as no surprise that the lessons I've enjoyed the most, and I feel have been the most exciting for the kids, have come when I've been able to draw for the class. There haven't been many occasions where I've been able to do this yet (the beginning lessons "How are you? My name is __" don't offer much in terms of visual splendor...) but we're starting to move into more complex lessons, that have vocabulary words that are fairly illustratable. The kids are all impressed with any quick drawings I may do on the board, and eagerly answer any comprehension questions I ask in reference to the picture. Coming here, I knew that I would be utilizing my visual arts background to help me communicate, and also knew I would enjoy doing so. Still, I couldn't help but be pleasantly surprised with how much more fun teaching became when I drew upon my art skills (no pun intended). I am trying to come up with more lessons that can incorporate my skills.

The Grand Tour

Coming here, I wasn't exactly sure what to expect, accommodation-wise. "Furnished studio" can mean anything. I remained cautiously optimistic, but also secretly curious if I would wind up in a cement closet with a single hanging bulb and a yoga mat on the floor.

Arriving, I was very pleasantly surprised. My apartment is clean, bright, modern, and (most importantly) a place I feel comfortable to spend my time. Even at half the size of my studio in Denver, I feel like I have all the space I need. As far as furnishings, the apartment came with a naked bed, wardrobe, vanity, TV on a TV stand, a washing machine, drying rack, and that's about all. The first day I was here my co-teacher took me shopping at Lotte Mart where I dropped $200 for some cheap bedding (just a double size comforter and thin blanket), showering supplies, bowls, silverware, and a few other odds and ends. I am also well stocked with bottled water, since tap water isn't drinkable here. I've been slowly buying other household items as needed over the weeks, and will (hopefully) soon have just about everything I need... Which I will get rid of when I leave in a year.

In Korea, they heat their homes and apartments with heating elements under the floor, which I absolutely love. Being one to chronically leave my clothes on the ground, it's so refreshing to pick up a shirt, and have it feel like it came out of the drier. [Also, dryers don't exist out here.] My feet are warm, and the cold air has no place to hang out.

Another thing I've noticed about Korea: They like their mattresses firm like whoa. What might be considered a box spring in America is the whole shebang in Korea. The springs feel like they're concealed by no more than a couple layers of paper towels. Sheets: also not a thing out here, which I'm trying to adjust to. You can buy them, but they're expensive and not readily available everywhere. I think a quest for a mattress pad and some decent bedding will be my first order of business once I get paid next week.

Oh, and I also bought a tiny house plant that I'm naming Herman. After three years with Toulouse, it feels weird to come home to a pet-less apartment, so I bought something to serve as a [painfully underwhelming] substitution. It's green and spindly, and actually quite hideous.

Anyway, I've finally managed to upload my video tour for your viewing pleasure, so without further ado...

And while we're on the subject of my apartment, I also have my address for those of you who were asking about it. My co-teacher informed me that mail wouldn't make it to my place if the address were only written in English, so you would have to have it in Korean. To make it easier on you, and to prevent any illiterate-monks-copying-the-bible-incorrectly types of mistakes, I made up this label which you can just print out and paste on letters and packages. (I still did, however, provide the English version of my address on the label so you can use it on forms or whatnot.)

An entry about teaching is on its way soon.

Cropped & color-corrected versions of what I saw

Pictures from our three day clustercuss sightseeing marathon are now up on my brand-spankin'-new Flickr account! Go treat your eyeballs with a healthy splash of saturated pixels!

22 minute vacations to America, starting at just 11MB

After the exhausting final orientation days (see previous post) all I wanted was a day completely to myself where I could indulge in some comfort activities from home. It’s amazing how even the simplest tasks can be so much more stressful when there’s such an impenetrable language barrier. I just want to buy food, dammit! Why can’t I understand?? I relishing in the little things I can control which, so far, have prevented any overwhelming feelings of culture shock to set in.

Any American traveling abroad might be sad when Hulu, Netflix, and other online streaming sites don’t work outside their country, and now you can’t keep up with the lives of fictional characters you feel oddly invested in. Unless, of course, you download this lovely IP address blocker! With it, I’ve been able to watch my weekly episodes of Community, and The Office. When the new season of Project Runway airs, I’ll be ready for that too…

Another comfort from home is listening to podcasts. I love being told a good story, and The Moth, and RISK! podcasts are perfect background for when you’re cleaning around the house, or working on artwork. If you’ve never listened to either of these, I highly recommend you do. They also happen to be fantastic for road trips.

[Sidenote: The Moth is hosting an event in Denver on March 7^th. I hugely disappointed that I cannot be there, and jealous of anyone who can. Denver friends (Margaret in particular), go in my place, and report back.]

If I set my computer on my vanity, I’ve found I can get a reliable WiFi signal about 80% of the time. This has been really nice, because it allows me to Skype my family and friends conveniently from my apartment, instead of venturing to find an internet café, or PC Bang. The time difference with my schedule prevents me from calling home during the weekdays, so I’ve decided Saturday mornings will be used for Skyping. I love having something to look forward to at the end of every week.

But, of course, the biggest comfort comes from stepping away from glowing rectangles and enjoying interpersonal interactions. Building a network of people who I will consider my close family during this adventure what puts the biggest smile on my face.  The people I’ve met are all fantastic, and I feel more and more at home here every time I see them. I’ve even managed to connect with a couple native Koreans who work in the shops I frequent near my apartment! A warm smile and an English “Hello, Nick!” greet me at the Lotte Mart whenever my favorite employee sees I’ve walked in. I smile and wave back “Annyeong hasseyo!”

A Vortex of Orient

Orientation concluded last Thursday  afternoon after a marathon three day sightseeing tour around the Challanamdo Province. Though class time was over on Monday, the field trip stretch was by far the most exhausting portion of the whole experience. I honestly don’t think I can recall all the places of interest we were chaperoned to, but I’ll do my best to break it down.

TUESDAY

The day begins at 8:40, when all the teachers met at the Yeosu city bus terminal, and boarded a coach that would take us to:

The Posco Steel Mill: Apparently one of the biggest steel mills in the world. Also, the place where we watched the first of what would be many educational videos narrated with perfect American accents, but using phrases like “feast of silver dreams” (I began to look forward to these videos with every new place we’d visit.) Touring Posco, I could only think of two things: Terminator 2, and The Simpsons.

Visit to a historical Korean village: Highlighting the way people lived about a thousand years ago, think renaissance festival, but Korean. And mostly deserted and uneventful, since it was a Tuesday in February.

Vegetarian buffet lunch: They had nacho chips, but no cheese…

Jeollanam-do Wetlands Nature Preserve: “A gigantic vortex of life that realizes the relationship of humankind and nature.” Winding through a field of tall reeds a boardwalk guided us to the foot of a small hill (or, to those not from Colorado, a mountain) which we climbed to watch the sun set over the marsh. It was gorgeous.

Dinner: Korean barbeque. Also, beer and Soju. For those who don’t know, Soju is a subtly flavored liquor that is dangerously easy to drink. It tastes like vodka and sake’s more diluted offspring. It’s only about 20% alcohol by volume, half as strong as typical liquor, so naturally you drink about five times more. The result is Noraebang, a rented room where you and your friends can scream karaoke at the top of your voice.

Wednesday:

Oh God, Soju, why?? At the breakfast buffet I made sure to grab extra portions of anything that looked fried. Even our recruiter was feeling it the next day. Though she put on her bravest social director face, I could see the glimpses of a hangover through momentary cracks in her expression while she addressed the bus.

The Boseong Green Tea Gardens: Gorgeous. And steep. Our calves protest.

Gangjin Celadon Porcelain Museum: “Accomplishing superiority and elegance through achievements in intricacy and elegance.”

Lunch: Twenty of us graze at tables filled with more side dishes than I’ve ever seen on a single table.

And on to…

Another place: Oh god, I’m tired. Can we please call it a day after this one?

Another place: This has to be the last place, right? I’m so exhausted.

Another place:  Ok, I can’t handle this anymore. This has to be the last one, right?

Another place: Are you freaking kidding me???!?!

I don’t know if there actually were that many places, but it sure felt like that. I literally can’t remember all the different places we visited this day, so just imagine a long list of museums or places of historical interest and you should get the idea.

My co-teacher picks me up from orientation, since she and I need to get some more things finished for my alien registration card application. I then take her out for a simple, quick bite to eat and then head home– I’m very relieved.

Thursday

Please God, let today not be as long as yesterday. Today we would be staying in the city of Yeosu, instead of driving 45 minutes to an hour to the various destinations.

We began the day with archery lessons. That’s right. Archery. Also, puppies were present, but not used as targets.

2012 Yeosu World Expo site: Though not yet complete, it was interesting to see what they have planned for Yeosu. Next year, Yeosu will be hosting the 2012 World Expo. This is a big deal. For example, Paris held the World’s Fair in 1889, for which the Eiffel Tower was built. Anyway, the country is spending billions of dollars to build a state of the art facility on the ocean. The theme of the Expo is sustainable activities – focusing on resolving ecological problems facing the oceans. Go check it out!

From there, we walked across a bridge to an island, where we could look out over the coast. It was a cloudless day, and we all shed our jackets, and took our pictures by a cave.

Lunchtime! We returned from the island, and grabbed a quick, simple lunch at the food court in a Lotte Mart; Refreshingly western style eating. (read: not family style and a manageable number of dishes on the table.)

Boat excursion: That’s right, I’m on a boat! Had I only known we’d be doing this, I would have brought along my nautical-themed Pashmina Afghan. For about two hours, we sailed around the islands in the Yeosu peninsula. This was by far the most leisurely of all the orientation activities, as we could just sit on the deck and talk amongst ourselves as we watched the shore drift by in the distance. Everyone enjoyed themselves.

The boat ride concluded our orientation and we all headed back to our apartments, totally prepared to return to a slower pace of life. Though it was quite exhausting, I did enjoy seeing the entire group together every day, and I am a little sad at the idea that I won’t anymore. I’m curious which of the other teachers I will continue to see regularly, and which ones I won’t see again for the year. (I already have inklings…)

Till next time!

Settling in...

I’m updating my blog from an internet café not far from my apartment, uploading what I'd written earlier but wasn't able to share. I don’t yet have Wifi at my place, so any internet access I’ve had since I arrived was only for a moment or two when I had down time (which is not often) and when I can manage to steal a signal (which is also not often.)

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There are so many details I want to get into about the trip thusfar. I spent about an hour trying to write something cohesive, but with every sentence came countless details I wanted to include, and working them in became exhausting.

So I’m starting over. This time, I’m going to paint the experience with broad strokes, using minimal adjectives to provide you with a basic timeline of what I’ve been up to so far. For supplemental information, you can refer to the footnotes for the meaty details. (Sooooo meaty!) Basically I’m organizing my thoughts with what is, in essence, another list. I’m such a chronic lister.

Day 1: I flew out of Oakland on Monday morning, to fly to Seattle for my connecting flight to Seoul[i].  After landing in Seoul, I went to straight to my hotel, and then straight to bed.

Day 2: I awoke early[ii] to take a shuttle back to Incheon airport, and then catch a bus from there to Gimpo, where we would meet the rest of the teachers at 6:45 in front of the Dunkin’ Donuts[iii]. At eight o’clock, we caught a plane down to Yeosu, and began orientation classes[iv] immediately. Around three o’clock, orientation wrapped up early and we paired up with our co-teachers who took us to our new homes, as well as various other places[v]. After my co-teacher left me, I basically took the time to enjoy my own space, so I stayed in to watch a movie and be in bed by 9 o’clock.

Day 3: Once again I woke up early, then walked the five minutes to orientation[vi]. After orientation ended, I walked to Lotte Mart with another teacher to buy more apartment necessities I’d forgotten to pick up[vii]. Shortly after that, several of us teachers met up for dinner and drinks in Yeosu-Dong[viii]. I took a taxi back to my place and got to bed around midnight.

Day 4: Got up, and had my first hand-held shower in my place[ix]. Walked to orientation again, running into my landlord’s wife along the way[x]. Directly after orientation, a majority of the teachers got on a bus down to Yeosu-Dong and had another dinner and some drinks[xi]. After dinner, me and three other teachers called it a night and split a cab back to our respective neighborhoods. Which brings me to now…. Where I lay on my bed typing, half drunk, about this incredible experience.

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[i] My plane landed in Seoul at 6 pm on Tuesday after a twelve-hour flight.  Since I had been flying west, the sun never set, and outside it was like a mere five hours had passed. With crossing the international dateline, it was as though 29 hours had passed too.  Time was thrown in a blender.

[ii] Like, 4 o’clock early. I’ve beaten my alarm clock to the punch every day.

[iii] I was relieved when I came down to the lobby to meet my first Yeosu teachers; two guys, Calvin and Joe, from the northern UK. We talked and got to know each other a little bit while we traveled to Gimpo; Joe is 23, recently finished his ‘duty’ (I’m assuming this meant army service), and has a sister who it 13. Calvin is 33, studied Japanese abroad in college, and finished his duty about a year ago. Around 6:30 we met the others in front of the Dunkin’ Donuts on the second floor of the airport – there were about 20 of us. Most were from Britain or the UK, but there were also a few from South Africa. We all mingled with each other, eager to feel each other out, and find common ground.

[iv] Orientation is four days, 9am to 5pm (-1 hour for lunch), of classes meant to prepare us for life and teaching here in Korea. We’ve had a class on Korean life, reading Korean (which, I’m proud to say, I’m already getting the hang of. I’m already finding myself sounding out simple words.), Korean culture, lesson planning, music and dance, computer resources, elementary school activities and management, and a fair share of language practice. I look forward to orientation every day; I feel more and more confident and adventurous with every class. After our fourth day of classroom orientation, we will take a three-day trip to [I don’t remember where], where it sounds like we will be experiencing the culture in a more casual, hands-on way. This will also be a great chance to spend a lot of bonding time with the other teachers.

[v] My co-teacher’s name is Alison, and she is very sweet. Her English is great, and she was very helpful in getting me through the first day. As a gift to me, she gave me a calendar of Monet’s paintings for my apartment. She then introduced me to my landlord, who lives on the top floor of my building with his wife. He invited us both in for tea and fruit. I loved this; a genuine slice of Korean entertaining, and a chance to spend time with the people who will be taking care of me for the next year. After the tea, my co-teacher took me shopping at Lotte Mart for some basic amenities. Lotte Mart is the second largest store in Yeosu (think Super Target.) It was a tremendous help to have Alison there with me to translate and make sure I did everything right.

[vi] Seriously, I LOVE the location of my apartment. It’s on the edge of town, but I can easily walk to orientation, my elementary school, and (the closest) Lotte Mart. Also, the buses and cabs are dirt cheap out here, so getting to other parts of the city is fairly simple and affordable.

[vii] Like toilet paper. I was not happy to realize I’d forgotten to buy toilet paper the day before.

[viii] We ate eel, which was cooked on a grill in the middle of our table. Cooking your food at the table and eating family-style is how it’s done. We also drank plenty of beer and Soju (which just tastes like watered down vodka.) It was the first time I had the chance to spend time with the other teachers outside of orientation, and I had a blast. By the end of the night we were all feeling giggly and happy.

[ix] Not bad. I’m still going to try and rig something up so I can attach the shower head to the towel rack and enjoy a hands-free cleansing.

[x] Anneyeong haseo!

[xi] More cook-at-your-table fun., and a table top fully cluttered with dozens of small side dishes.

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Coming soon: a short video tour of my apartment!

A twelve hour perspective.

After arriving in San Francisco on Friday afternoon, and concluding my business with the Korean consulate, I found myself with some time to kill in the city before I had to return my rental car.  I made a quick pilgrimage to the Full House house to take the predictable fan picture, and then decided to drive around until I found a place to spend some time. I found myself a couple blocks from the Palace of the Fine Arts, so I grabbed my computer, found a park bench, and decided to write about what I saw…

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12: Directly in front of me, a fountain throwing water skyward at the south end of an otherwise undisturbed man-made pond populated by seagulls, ducks, and even a swan or two.

11: An hour to the left I can see a bride and groom, embracing for their photographer. The impressive faux Roman ruins glowing in the waning afternoon light will provide a stunning backdrop.

10: Corinthian columns the color and size of redwoods flank a courtyard. There should be a toga and olive branch dress code, and conversation would be peppered with the latest scholarly endeavors.

9: Standing my periphery, the willow tree providing shade enough to see my laptop screen is taking a nap in the soft breeze.

8: Winding back the clock and up a slight embankment, the intersection of Bay and Lyon streets is surprisingly quiet.

7: The biggest house on the block loiters at the corner, looking out at the park and asking passers by Do you have any idea who my father is?

6: Directly behind me, floor-to-ceiling bay windows answer I know who his father is, because my father and his father play polo together on the weekends.

5: I can see the only building that doesn’t look like it doesn’t belong; a deep red brick exclamation point punctuates a sentence of pastels.

4: Glancing over my shoulder, I watch a black car, obviously driven by a tourist, slow down to look for parking and admire the park that just beckoned him to sit and have a picnic.

3: Opposite the willow is the small grassy hill that I passed in favor of this park bench.

2: The hot spot for picture taking seems to be the small finger of the path extends into the pond.

1: I’m looking at the now-empty spot in front of me where, during the course of writing this, the married couple had migrated to and concluded their photo shoot. I congratulated them as they left.

This weekend will be brought to me by the letters C and A

I'm currently sitting at Gate 92, regretting my Starbucks breakfast choice, and waiting for my flight to Sacramento. I thought this would be a good opportunity to write the first of many emails to my friends and family updating everyone on the Korean adventure I'm about to embark on. The past couple weeks feel like they flew by in a matter of hours. It didn't take long to figure out the looming To Do list I had written for myself was overly ambitious, and I had to cut it down to the bare essentials. (Sorry, dentist, I guess I won't be visiting you after all. Same goes with you, optometrist!) Instead of stressing about these little things, I'm focusing that energy into accepting that I can't tie up every loose end before I leave, and I have to be ok with that.

In order to keep you in the loop, I've just started a blog where, in addition to these emails, you can track the more innocuous details of my day-to-day adventures abroad.

That's all I've got for now. My plane is about to board, so I've got to wrap this up. I will miss you all so much, and am very much looking forward to the refreshing pick-me-up that is the friendly, spontaneous e-mail.