Eyes to the Front

Coming to Korea, I was quite excited by the idea that I would be able to use vacation time for its intended purpose: vacations. Flights between countries in Southeast Asia are rumored to be fairly cheap.  (I admit I haven’t looked into this too much yet.)

Where am I most excited to go? Thailand. Thailand has been trickling into my brain more and more over the past year.

I think I’ll watch Brokedown Palace. Drip drip.

The Beach with Leonardo DiCaprio? Sure. Drip drip drip.

Oh look, my friend just posted an album of her visit to Bangkok. Drip drip.

I’m hungry for some coconut curry. Drip drop drip.

Maybe I’ll watch some tsunami footage on YouTube. Drip. Bloop. Splash.

The rain barrel in my head is now full of crystal clear, cerulean water.

In addition to Thailand, I am also focused on a trip that Josh, Margaret, and I have our sights on for June of 2012: A yachting trip around the Mediterranean. (I’M ON A BOAT!) I know this sounds impossibly extravagant, but Josh has done some research, and it’s remarkably feasible. Pending full participation, renting a twelve-person yacht with a captain for eight days is only $5,000, or roughly $420 per person.

Chatting with Josh the other day about the future, I mentioned that I’m considering spending several weeks in Thailand once my contract is finished next March. Then Josh suggested something brilliant:

“What might be cheaper than going home,” he said “would be finding an apartment in Thailand to live in until the yachting trip.”

He’s so right. Why hadn’t I thought of this? Thailand is notoriously inexpensive. For the money I might spend just on airfare back to the states, I could easily live in Thailand for three months, with money left over to put towards the yachting trip! It makes so much sense. As of right now, this is my plan. In the meantime, I’ll try to focus on the adventure at hand – It’s not like I don’t have enough on my plate.

So if you’re looking to take an awesome vacation next year between March and June, Thailand might be a thought. Just sayin’…

[K]uisine

Though I’m a fairly open minded eater (I’m probably the most adventurous in the family) I still can’t help but feel proud of myself for how many new foods I have tried since arriving. More importantly, how many of these things were tried without a moment’s hesitation. I’ve resigned myself to the idea that, since I’m here, I might as well try everything they hand me (at least once) and hope for the best.

With the exception of one instance about a year ago, I had never even eaten at a Korean restaurant before I arrived in this country. (Which, really, is quite shocking considering my love for Asian food.) I knew very little about Korean cuisine except this: they love their kimchi like Pooh loves honey.

Kimchi, in case you don’t know, is cabbage that is fermented, chilled, and covered with a red pepper sauce. Served with every meal, it’s like the salt and pepper shakers in America; always on the table. The first few weeks I choked down every piece I was given, hoping I would develop a taste for it. My efforts were in vain, and finally I gave up admitted to myself that I hated it. Seriously, it’s sick.

My first night in Yeosu, a few of us newbies went to dinner with a couple teachers who already knew the ropes. The Korean dining experience is quite different. We removed our shoes and left them at the front of the restaurant, and sat on the floor around tables with little grills in the center. Side dishes filled the entire table; kimchi, shredded vegetables, sauces, etc. There were also roasted silk worm larvae, and octopus tentacles wrapped around a stick, roasted and seasoned (a.k.a. ‘octopops.’) I tried it all. I will not be eating the larvae again any time soon, if I can help it.

Food is rarely served in individualized portions; rather, it is served family-style, and often without a plate. We ordered eel, which was brought out to cook on the grill in front of us. The waitress came out periodically to cut and turn the filets until they were fully cooked, and then we would graze from the grill; snagging a piece with our chopsticks, wrapping it in a lettuce leaf along with other sides on the table, dipping it in a sauce, and shoving it all in your mouth. So many little combinations, all of them delicious. It’s not considered rude to have to slurp or take large bites in Korea, which is good since these wraps are almost impossible to eat any other way.

Once we finished our very tasty and satisfying meal, we headed up to the front of the restaurant where we paid. Tip and tax is included here, which is nice and easy when it comes time to split up the bill.

Since my first night in Yeosu, I’ve had countless meals just like that one. It’s always wonderful, but in a weird way also exhausting. Cooking your own food at the table adds a minor element of stress to the meal (“Is it burning? Fully cooked? Should we turn it?”), and after a month I started to miss pre-portioned, pre-cooked food brought to me on my own plate and eaten while sitting in a chair.  So I took a short break and spent the last couple weeks pursuing other options. However, I would be lying if I said typing this didn’t make me hungry for some Korean BBQ, so obviously I can’t be that sick of it. The next year is going to be an intrepid one for my taste buds.

Playing to my strengths

Teaching elementary school english has been a really interesting experience so far. I teach 22 classes per week, third through sixth grade. There have been moments where the kids are excited and engaged and I'm loving my job, and then there are some moments of uncomfortable silence that make me feel awkward and unprepared. It's all a part of the learning curve.

Teaching is learning. I'm constantly processing the feedback I receive from the kids - what grabs their attention, what leaves them bored, how long it takes them to complete certain tasks, how can you boost their self-confidence, etc. Last week I had two kids burst into tears and I have absolutely no idea why! I'm also learning about my skills as a leader; I'm finding that, without my co-teacher present, I'm much more comfortable standing in front of the kids and talking, which came as a surprise to me. When another teacher is there and instructing the kids, I feel unsure of myself; when I should be jumping in to speak? Should I be taking over? Without another teacher talking, I'm not distracted by this uncertainty and I am comfortable exuding a more commanding presence.

The curriculum is structured around our English textbook and the CD-ROM that comes with it. Each lesson has a certain number of periods it should be taught, and a bunch of different activities that play to different learning styles. For the most part, the book is really great to follow. Pretty thorough, and helpful. However, teaching at Yeocheon Elementary is proving to be very difficult, because I move from classroom to classroom, and have run into computer problems on multiple occasions. This means the lesson plan I had around the CD-ROM is now useless, and I need to come up with something new on the spot. Yikes. Right now I feel like all 12 of my classes at that school are on different pages, and I just want all the grades to be in the same place, so planning the week isn't so difficult. My other school, So-Ra Elementary, has its own English classroom, and consequently I have had no problems following the book there.

One thing I love that works so well for kids (especially the 5th and 6th grade) is competitive games. I know this isn't news to anyone (even I knew this going in), but I still can't help but be impressed with the attention-harnessing power of a scoreboard.

It should also come as no surprise that the lessons I've enjoyed the most, and I feel have been the most exciting for the kids, have come when I've been able to draw for the class. There haven't been many occasions where I've been able to do this yet (the beginning lessons "How are you? My name is __" don't offer much in terms of visual splendor...) but we're starting to move into more complex lessons, that have vocabulary words that are fairly illustratable. The kids are all impressed with any quick drawings I may do on the board, and eagerly answer any comprehension questions I ask in reference to the picture. Coming here, I knew that I would be utilizing my visual arts background to help me communicate, and also knew I would enjoy doing so. Still, I couldn't help but be pleasantly surprised with how much more fun teaching became when I drew upon my art skills (no pun intended). I am trying to come up with more lessons that can incorporate my skills.

The Grand Tour

Coming here, I wasn't exactly sure what to expect, accommodation-wise. "Furnished studio" can mean anything. I remained cautiously optimistic, but also secretly curious if I would wind up in a cement closet with a single hanging bulb and a yoga mat on the floor.

Arriving, I was very pleasantly surprised. My apartment is clean, bright, modern, and (most importantly) a place I feel comfortable to spend my time. Even at half the size of my studio in Denver, I feel like I have all the space I need. As far as furnishings, the apartment came with a naked bed, wardrobe, vanity, TV on a TV stand, a washing machine, drying rack, and that's about all. The first day I was here my co-teacher took me shopping at Lotte Mart where I dropped $200 for some cheap bedding (just a double size comforter and thin blanket), showering supplies, bowls, silverware, and a few other odds and ends. I am also well stocked with bottled water, since tap water isn't drinkable here. I've been slowly buying other household items as needed over the weeks, and will (hopefully) soon have just about everything I need... Which I will get rid of when I leave in a year.

In Korea, they heat their homes and apartments with heating elements under the floor, which I absolutely love. Being one to chronically leave my clothes on the ground, it's so refreshing to pick up a shirt, and have it feel like it came out of the drier. [Also, dryers don't exist out here.] My feet are warm, and the cold air has no place to hang out.

Another thing I've noticed about Korea: They like their mattresses firm like whoa. What might be considered a box spring in America is the whole shebang in Korea. The springs feel like they're concealed by no more than a couple layers of paper towels. Sheets: also not a thing out here, which I'm trying to adjust to. You can buy them, but they're expensive and not readily available everywhere. I think a quest for a mattress pad and some decent bedding will be my first order of business once I get paid next week.

Oh, and I also bought a tiny house plant that I'm naming Herman. After three years with Toulouse, it feels weird to come home to a pet-less apartment, so I bought something to serve as a [painfully underwhelming] substitution. It's green and spindly, and actually quite hideous.

Anyway, I've finally managed to upload my video tour for your viewing pleasure, so without further ado...

And while we're on the subject of my apartment, I also have my address for those of you who were asking about it. My co-teacher informed me that mail wouldn't make it to my place if the address were only written in English, so you would have to have it in Korean. To make it easier on you, and to prevent any illiterate-monks-copying-the-bible-incorrectly types of mistakes, I made up this label which you can just print out and paste on letters and packages. (I still did, however, provide the English version of my address on the label so you can use it on forms or whatnot.)

An entry about teaching is on its way soon.

Cropped & color-corrected versions of what I saw

Pictures from our three day clustercuss sightseeing marathon are now up on my brand-spankin'-new Flickr account! Go treat your eyeballs with a healthy splash of saturated pixels!

22 minute vacations to America, starting at just 11MB

After the exhausting final orientation days (see previous post) all I wanted was a day completely to myself where I could indulge in some comfort activities from home. It’s amazing how even the simplest tasks can be so much more stressful when there’s such an impenetrable language barrier. I just want to buy food, dammit! Why can’t I understand?? I relishing in the little things I can control which, so far, have prevented any overwhelming feelings of culture shock to set in.

Any American traveling abroad might be sad when Hulu, Netflix, and other online streaming sites don’t work outside their country, and now you can’t keep up with the lives of fictional characters you feel oddly invested in. Unless, of course, you download this lovely IP address blocker! With it, I’ve been able to watch my weekly episodes of Community, and The Office. When the new season of Project Runway airs, I’ll be ready for that too…

Another comfort from home is listening to podcasts. I love being told a good story, and The Moth, and RISK! podcasts are perfect background for when you’re cleaning around the house, or working on artwork. If you’ve never listened to either of these, I highly recommend you do. They also happen to be fantastic for road trips.

[Sidenote: The Moth is hosting an event in Denver on March 7^th. I hugely disappointed that I cannot be there, and jealous of anyone who can. Denver friends (Margaret in particular), go in my place, and report back.]

If I set my computer on my vanity, I’ve found I can get a reliable WiFi signal about 80% of the time. This has been really nice, because it allows me to Skype my family and friends conveniently from my apartment, instead of venturing to find an internet café, or PC Bang. The time difference with my schedule prevents me from calling home during the weekdays, so I’ve decided Saturday mornings will be used for Skyping. I love having something to look forward to at the end of every week.

But, of course, the biggest comfort comes from stepping away from glowing rectangles and enjoying interpersonal interactions. Building a network of people who I will consider my close family during this adventure what puts the biggest smile on my face.  The people I’ve met are all fantastic, and I feel more and more at home here every time I see them. I’ve even managed to connect with a couple native Koreans who work in the shops I frequent near my apartment! A warm smile and an English “Hello, Nick!” greet me at the Lotte Mart whenever my favorite employee sees I’ve walked in. I smile and wave back “Annyeong hasseyo!”

A Vortex of Orient

Orientation concluded last Thursday  afternoon after a marathon three day sightseeing tour around the Challanamdo Province. Though class time was over on Monday, the field trip stretch was by far the most exhausting portion of the whole experience. I honestly don’t think I can recall all the places of interest we were chaperoned to, but I’ll do my best to break it down.

TUESDAY

The day begins at 8:40, when all the teachers met at the Yeosu city bus terminal, and boarded a coach that would take us to:

The Posco Steel Mill: Apparently one of the biggest steel mills in the world. Also, the place where we watched the first of what would be many educational videos narrated with perfect American accents, but using phrases like “feast of silver dreams” (I began to look forward to these videos with every new place we’d visit.) Touring Posco, I could only think of two things: Terminator 2, and The Simpsons.

Visit to a historical Korean village: Highlighting the way people lived about a thousand years ago, think renaissance festival, but Korean. And mostly deserted and uneventful, since it was a Tuesday in February.

Vegetarian buffet lunch: They had nacho chips, but no cheese…

Jeollanam-do Wetlands Nature Preserve: “A gigantic vortex of life that realizes the relationship of humankind and nature.” Winding through a field of tall reeds a boardwalk guided us to the foot of a small hill (or, to those not from Colorado, a mountain) which we climbed to watch the sun set over the marsh. It was gorgeous.

Dinner: Korean barbeque. Also, beer and Soju. For those who don’t know, Soju is a subtly flavored liquor that is dangerously easy to drink. It tastes like vodka and sake’s more diluted offspring. It’s only about 20% alcohol by volume, half as strong as typical liquor, so naturally you drink about five times more. The result is Noraebang, a rented room where you and your friends can scream karaoke at the top of your voice.

Wednesday:

Oh God, Soju, why?? At the breakfast buffet I made sure to grab extra portions of anything that looked fried. Even our recruiter was feeling it the next day. Though she put on her bravest social director face, I could see the glimpses of a hangover through momentary cracks in her expression while she addressed the bus.

The Boseong Green Tea Gardens: Gorgeous. And steep. Our calves protest.

Gangjin Celadon Porcelain Museum: “Accomplishing superiority and elegance through achievements in intricacy and elegance.”

Lunch: Twenty of us graze at tables filled with more side dishes than I’ve ever seen on a single table.

And on to…

Another place: Oh god, I’m tired. Can we please call it a day after this one?

Another place: This has to be the last place, right? I’m so exhausted.

Another place:  Ok, I can’t handle this anymore. This has to be the last one, right?

Another place: Are you freaking kidding me???!?!

I don’t know if there actually were that many places, but it sure felt like that. I literally can’t remember all the different places we visited this day, so just imagine a long list of museums or places of historical interest and you should get the idea.

My co-teacher picks me up from orientation, since she and I need to get some more things finished for my alien registration card application. I then take her out for a simple, quick bite to eat and then head home– I’m very relieved.

Thursday

Please God, let today not be as long as yesterday. Today we would be staying in the city of Yeosu, instead of driving 45 minutes to an hour to the various destinations.

We began the day with archery lessons. That’s right. Archery. Also, puppies were present, but not used as targets.

2012 Yeosu World Expo site: Though not yet complete, it was interesting to see what they have planned for Yeosu. Next year, Yeosu will be hosting the 2012 World Expo. This is a big deal. For example, Paris held the World’s Fair in 1889, for which the Eiffel Tower was built. Anyway, the country is spending billions of dollars to build a state of the art facility on the ocean. The theme of the Expo is sustainable activities – focusing on resolving ecological problems facing the oceans. Go check it out!

From there, we walked across a bridge to an island, where we could look out over the coast. It was a cloudless day, and we all shed our jackets, and took our pictures by a cave.

Lunchtime! We returned from the island, and grabbed a quick, simple lunch at the food court in a Lotte Mart; Refreshingly western style eating. (read: not family style and a manageable number of dishes on the table.)

Boat excursion: That’s right, I’m on a boat! Had I only known we’d be doing this, I would have brought along my nautical-themed Pashmina Afghan. For about two hours, we sailed around the islands in the Yeosu peninsula. This was by far the most leisurely of all the orientation activities, as we could just sit on the deck and talk amongst ourselves as we watched the shore drift by in the distance. Everyone enjoyed themselves.

The boat ride concluded our orientation and we all headed back to our apartments, totally prepared to return to a slower pace of life. Though it was quite exhausting, I did enjoy seeing the entire group together every day, and I am a little sad at the idea that I won’t anymore. I’m curious which of the other teachers I will continue to see regularly, and which ones I won’t see again for the year. (I already have inklings…)

Till next time!