I shot this video of my friend Katie and I having Shabu-Shabu at one of our favorite restaurants in Yeosu. That's some good eatin'.
Friday, May 20, 2011
Tuesday, May 17, 2011
Seoul, part deux
After buying the matching underwear, Rollie left to go to a Cirque de Solei show with the group he had traveled with. Molly and I, drawn like moths to a flame by the promise of H&M, headed further downtown. We perused awhile, and then called Annie and Meagan who came and met us for a dinner of middle-eastern/Indian food, topping off the meal with a patio and a hookah.
After we'd enjoyed the sweet perfume of apple tobacco long enough, Molly and I went to a hole-in-the-wall bar called Vinyl, where Ray and Victoria were enjoying tasty cocktails that were served in plastic bags. And when I say hole-in-the-wall, I mean just that. The place was a single, triangular room with a small counter where you could order your drinks, and a couple benches around the perimeter. It was like drinking in a walk-in closet. The lighting was dim, there were band/event posters littering the wall, and a bohemian-filth atmosphere that instantly earned a place in my heart. I cannot wait to go again.
We left Vinyl to explore the other bars in Hongdae (the area of town where Molly and my hostels were) and, after swimming through the restless tides of foreigners doing exactly what were were doing, we eventually settled on one of the literally hundreds (thousands?) of bars in the area, and grabbed a booth across from a Korean asleep at his table. It wasn't until an hour later that we realized that Rollie was with his friends in the booth on the other side of the dividing wall. We couldn't have orchestrated this meeting if we had tried - no one knew the city well enough to direct the other to a place to meet. So we hung out some more and had a beer together.
The next morning I again ate breakfast, checked out of my hostel, and caught to metro to meet up with Maren and Rollie in the shopping area of the city. I stored my luggage in a public locker, and met them for some more shopping, including a successful trip to Forever 21 where I got a cardigan I suspect I will wear the shit out of. Afterward we found a really good pizza place and the three of us enjoyed a neighbor-reunion lunch before I had to leave to catch a train back to Yeosu. (It's about a five hour journey on land.)
The weekend in Seoul felt like a weekend out of Korea. For the first time since arriving in here, I felt like I didn't stand out while I walked down the street. It was so refreshing to feel anonymous again; you don't how much you think about it until you don't have to. And to be able to experience Seoul in the company of the people that, aside from my family, I have known the longest... well, that was just special.
The train arrived on time back in Yeosu at around 8:30, and I dragged myself home simultaneously satisfied and hungry for more. I will be returning to Seoul next month...
... WHEN MY PARENTS COME TO VISIT!!!
After we'd enjoyed the sweet perfume of apple tobacco long enough, Molly and I went to a hole-in-the-wall bar called Vinyl, where Ray and Victoria were enjoying tasty cocktails that were served in plastic bags. And when I say hole-in-the-wall, I mean just that. The place was a single, triangular room with a small counter where you could order your drinks, and a couple benches around the perimeter. It was like drinking in a walk-in closet. The lighting was dim, there were band/event posters littering the wall, and a bohemian-filth atmosphere that instantly earned a place in my heart. I cannot wait to go again.
We left Vinyl to explore the other bars in Hongdae (the area of town where Molly and my hostels were) and, after swimming through the restless tides of foreigners doing exactly what were were doing, we eventually settled on one of the literally hundreds (thousands?) of bars in the area, and grabbed a booth across from a Korean asleep at his table. It wasn't until an hour later that we realized that Rollie was with his friends in the booth on the other side of the dividing wall. We couldn't have orchestrated this meeting if we had tried - no one knew the city well enough to direct the other to a place to meet. So we hung out some more and had a beer together.The next morning I again ate breakfast, checked out of my hostel, and caught to metro to meet up with Maren and Rollie in the shopping area of the city. I stored my luggage in a public locker, and met them for some more shopping, including a successful trip to Forever 21 where I got a cardigan I suspect I will wear the shit out of. Afterward we found a really good pizza place and the three of us enjoyed a neighbor-reunion lunch before I had to leave to catch a train back to Yeosu. (It's about a five hour journey on land.)
The weekend in Seoul felt like a weekend out of Korea. For the first time since arriving in here, I felt like I didn't stand out while I walked down the street. It was so refreshing to feel anonymous again; you don't how much you think about it until you don't have to. And to be able to experience Seoul in the company of the people that, aside from my family, I have known the longest... well, that was just special.
The train arrived on time back in Yeosu at around 8:30, and I dragged myself home simultaneously satisfied and hungry for more. I will be returning to Seoul next month...
... WHEN MY PARENTS COME TO VISIT!!!
Sunday, May 15, 2011
Seoul, part 1
The other weekend I visited Seoul for the first time.
I flew up there on Friday night with Molly. Though the one-way ticket came to about $100, it was definitely worth the extra money, seeing as it cut travel time by about 80% and gave us an extra evening in the city. As a sidenote, the Yeosu airport is really, really small. I got a kick out of the advisory on my confirmation email saying "in case the airport is busy, be sure to arrive at least 20 minutes before your flight departs."
We arrived at Gimpo airport around 8:30, and were checked into our hostels by 9:30. This was actually my first time ever to stay in a hostel. Despite the awkwardness that was sharing a room with two girls from China who spoke no English, I actually liked the hostel experience. It's like combining a vacation with being a freshman in college.
Friday evening was a cheap dinner of gimbop, and after that a walk around the neighborhood. Eventually we wound up in a small, crowded park where we drank mokoli (rice wine) and mingled with the many foreigners around us. After a couple hours of convenience-store runs, terrifying public bathrooms, and playing lots of "spot the cute foreigner," I decided I was drunk enough to head back to my hostel. I creeped in late that night while my foreign room mates slept. They snuck out early the next morning while I slept.
After my breakfast of PB&J on toast, I gave Rollie a call, and arranged to meet him at the entrance to the metro. Molly joined too, making my the meat in a rhyming sandwich. I adopted the nickname 'Faully' to keep with the theme. Together we took the metro to Gyeongbukgung, where Maren already had gone with her friends. We met up with them briefly as they were finishing, but parted ways to finish walking around the humungous palace grounds.
We finished touring Gyeongbukgung and Rollie, Molly and I met some other Yeosuvians (I just now made up that word, and the terminology is subject to change at will) for a rooftop lunch. We all had burgers; mediocre, but comforting. I wasn't complaining though. I don't care what I'm eating when I'm enjoying a sunny day on a roof with a view.
On the street outside the restaurant was the first of two impulse-underwear purchases I would make during my time in Seoul. Fake Dolce and Gabbana neon green trunks for 6,000 won. (About $6.) About an hour later I would buy another pair of fake D&Gs with Rollie. That's right; we each bought a pair of blue and white striped trunks. (With stars on them!) Hands off, ladies.
Seoul, part II coming soon!
I flew up there on Friday night with Molly. Though the one-way ticket came to about $100, it was definitely worth the extra money, seeing as it cut travel time by about 80% and gave us an extra evening in the city. As a sidenote, the Yeosu airport is really, really small. I got a kick out of the advisory on my confirmation email saying "in case the airport is busy, be sure to arrive at least 20 minutes before your flight departs."
We arrived at Gimpo airport around 8:30, and were checked into our hostels by 9:30. This was actually my first time ever to stay in a hostel. Despite the awkwardness that was sharing a room with two girls from China who spoke no English, I actually liked the hostel experience. It's like combining a vacation with being a freshman in college.
Friday evening was a cheap dinner of gimbop, and after that a walk around the neighborhood. Eventually we wound up in a small, crowded park where we drank mokoli (rice wine) and mingled with the many foreigners around us. After a couple hours of convenience-store runs, terrifying public bathrooms, and playing lots of "spot the cute foreigner," I decided I was drunk enough to head back to my hostel. I creeped in late that night while my foreign room mates slept. They snuck out early the next morning while I slept.
After my breakfast of PB&J on toast, I gave Rollie a call, and arranged to meet him at the entrance to the metro. Molly joined too, making my the meat in a rhyming sandwich. I adopted the nickname 'Faully' to keep with the theme. Together we took the metro to Gyeongbukgung, where Maren already had gone with her friends. We met up with them briefly as they were finishing, but parted ways to finish walking around the humungous palace grounds.We finished touring Gyeongbukgung and Rollie, Molly and I met some other Yeosuvians (I just now made up that word, and the terminology is subject to change at will) for a rooftop lunch. We all had burgers; mediocre, but comforting. I wasn't complaining though. I don't care what I'm eating when I'm enjoying a sunny day on a roof with a view.
On the street outside the restaurant was the first of two impulse-underwear purchases I would make during my time in Seoul. Fake Dolce and Gabbana neon green trunks for 6,000 won. (About $6.) About an hour later I would buy another pair of fake D&Gs with Rollie. That's right; we each bought a pair of blue and white striped trunks. (With stars on them!) Hands off, ladies.
Seoul, part II coming soon!
Saturday, May 14, 2011
Pros and [K]ons
Obviously, moving to a new country with an unfamiliar culture is not easy. It can be frustrating, and at times I begin to feel critical. I certainly do a fair share of venting to friends, but I also try to counterbalance my negative feelings about certain aspects of the culture by finding an equal number of positive things to focus on. I think that's healthier.
Some examples...
CON: Constant shoe removal. At school, restaurants, people's apartments, etc.
PRO: Apartments are heated through the floors. Very effective and your feet are toasty.
CON: Yellow dust & yellow dust hysteria. Sinus-irritating sand blows over from the Gobi desert, and everyone freaks out about it.
PRO: Never having to tip waiters, cab drivers, or anyone else. Ever.
CON: Kimchi. I tried, honest I did. But it's just gross.
PRO: Gimbop. A great snack that's cheap, healthy, available EVERYWHERE.
CON: Lightbulbs. They're all florescent or halogen. I miss the warm, flattering glow of tungsten.
PRO: Convenience stores. They're literally on almost every corner. You're never more than 100 yards from a quick snack, a basic home amenity, or your next cheap alcoholic drink.
CON: Loogie-hocking in public. People here constantly hock loud, nasty loogies in public. It's not considered rude, apparently.
PRO: Public transportation. It's far more reliable, accessible, and affordable than what I was used to in Colorado.
CON: Phone etiquette. People will answer that damn cell whenever and wherever it may ring. The idea that they can call someone back does not seem to even occur to them.
PRO: Public drinking. It's totally legal, and I feel like a high-schooler. As a bonus, with the multitude of convenience stores, beer is never far from any beautiful public park where you can hang out.
CON: Fish bones. They often don't de-bone the fish before serving it. On more than one occasion I've almost choked on a splinter stuck in my throat.
PRO: Drinking yogourt. It's like milk, but it's yogourt, and it's DELICIOUS!
CON: Giant visors. They're tacky and hideous, and every woman owns one.
PRO: Cabs. This might technically go under public transportation, but the cabs here are so ridiculously abundant and affordable, they get their own shout out on this list.
CON: Academia. It's really, really competitive out here. Kids have it rough. I do not envy them in the slightest.
PRO: The physical layout of elementary schools. They all seem to share the same structure; long two-story buildings with big windows and sliding doors. They feel streamlined and inviting. There's a simplicity to them that I just love.
This might be a good time to mention one of the best resources I used to prepare myself for life out here. Shortly before I left, I met a guy who had lived in Korea for several months. He gave me great advice, as well as a recommendation of a book called Culture Shock! Korea by Sonja Vegdahl and Ben Seunghua Hur (Ben Hur?) The book is one in a series that prepares westerners for life abroad. Upon returning home from meeting this guy, I ordered it from Amazon immediately. After arriving in Korea, I was immediately able to apply what I had read to real-life situations. The book described differences in personal space etiquette, gestures, and outlined cultural values. Did you know that the Korean hand motion to call someone over to you is a downward-palm wave? I didn't before I read the book, which told me upward-palm is used for dogs, and can therefore be considered insulting. My good friend Molly told me she read this before arriving and found the book equally helpful. For anyone planning on visiting a foreign country, I would strongly suggest you read the corresponding Culture Shock book to prepare. You'll be glad you did.
Some examples...
CON: Constant shoe removal. At school, restaurants, people's apartments, etc.
PRO: Apartments are heated through the floors. Very effective and your feet are toasty.
CON: Yellow dust & yellow dust hysteria. Sinus-irritating sand blows over from the Gobi desert, and everyone freaks out about it.
PRO: Never having to tip waiters, cab drivers, or anyone else. Ever.
CON: Kimchi. I tried, honest I did. But it's just gross.
PRO: Gimbop. A great snack that's cheap, healthy, available EVERYWHERE.
CON: Lightbulbs. They're all florescent or halogen. I miss the warm, flattering glow of tungsten.
PRO: Convenience stores. They're literally on almost every corner. You're never more than 100 yards from a quick snack, a basic home amenity, or your next cheap alcoholic drink.
CON: Loogie-hocking in public. People here constantly hock loud, nasty loogies in public. It's not considered rude, apparently.
PRO: Public transportation. It's far more reliable, accessible, and affordable than what I was used to in Colorado.
CON: Phone etiquette. People will answer that damn cell whenever and wherever it may ring. The idea that they can call someone back does not seem to even occur to them.
PRO: Public drinking. It's totally legal, and I feel like a high-schooler. As a bonus, with the multitude of convenience stores, beer is never far from any beautiful public park where you can hang out.
CON: Fish bones. They often don't de-bone the fish before serving it. On more than one occasion I've almost choked on a splinter stuck in my throat.
PRO: Drinking yogourt. It's like milk, but it's yogourt, and it's DELICIOUS!
CON: Giant visors. They're tacky and hideous, and every woman owns one.
PRO: Cabs. This might technically go under public transportation, but the cabs here are so ridiculously abundant and affordable, they get their own shout out on this list.
CON: Academia. It's really, really competitive out here. Kids have it rough. I do not envy them in the slightest.
PRO: The physical layout of elementary schools. They all seem to share the same structure; long two-story buildings with big windows and sliding doors. They feel streamlined and inviting. There's a simplicity to them that I just love.
This might be a good time to mention one of the best resources I used to prepare myself for life out here. Shortly before I left, I met a guy who had lived in Korea for several months. He gave me great advice, as well as a recommendation of a book called Culture Shock! Korea by Sonja Vegdahl and Ben Seunghua Hur (Ben Hur?) The book is one in a series that prepares westerners for life abroad. Upon returning home from meeting this guy, I ordered it from Amazon immediately. After arriving in Korea, I was immediately able to apply what I had read to real-life situations. The book described differences in personal space etiquette, gestures, and outlined cultural values. Did you know that the Korean hand motion to call someone over to you is a downward-palm wave? I didn't before I read the book, which told me upward-palm is used for dogs, and can therefore be considered insulting. My good friend Molly told me she read this before arriving and found the book equally helpful. For anyone planning on visiting a foreign country, I would strongly suggest you read the corresponding Culture Shock book to prepare. You'll be glad you did.
Wednesday, May 4, 2011
Writer's block.
I've had it.
A few things that have been on my mind though...
One: I'm not excited by the death of Osama bin Laden at all. The whole thing has me a bit wary. Watching the interwebs abuzz with people celebrating his violent death creeps me out. There's also the uncomfortable fact that it remains to be seen whether his death makes the slightest bit of difference. Other than vengeance, what does it mean that we killed this guy we've been looking for? How crucial was he to the operations of Al Qaeda if he spent the past decade in hiding? I just don't know.
BTW: Margaret posted a link to a great article in the New York Times.
Two: On Friday evening I will fly to Seoul to spend the weekend touring around. Maren will be there with Rollie, and I intend to meet up and go exploring the eighth largest city in the world together.
Three: Korea celebrates Children's Day every May 5th. It's exactly what it sounds like. I specifically remember whining to my mom as a kid "There's a Mother's Day, and a Father's Day. Why don't kids get a day?" To which she scoffed and replied "You do. It's called Christmas." She was so right. I shut my mouth, knowing I had just been pwned.
Korea doesn't see things this way though, so they've created a holiday that celebrates every child's amazing achievement: mere existence. If this affected me in any way other than being off work tomorrow, I'd say it was bullshit. But luckily it doesn't, so bring on the celebratin'. I think I'll do so by calling it Cinco de Mayo and drinking tequilla. This one's for you, kids! Olé!
Sunday, May 1, 2011
Photostream updated
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